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Modeling (Subject) / Jose Jacob (Lesson)

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• snells law quantifies the sedimentation in bays due to convergence of energy at headlands and thus gradient in energy - leading sedimentation in bay
• types of wave breaking and why different breaking depends on inclination of shore spilling   lowest inclination of bottom, large H , low L and T plunging collapsing surging highest inclination of bottom, low H , large L and T
• waves and current interaction both wind induced phenomena a) transport energy and b)transport of mass when in same direction then increase of wave length when in opposed direction then decrease of wave length and more steep
• seiche 2 opposing progreassive waves result in a standing wave with the node in the middle(axis) not changing in range and the antinodes on the side (changing in height) can be very dangerous can have single and 2 node seiche
• energy spectrum of waves (developped sea and wave fileds) low frequency waves have hgher energy and vice versa (energy is proportional to the height) Fully developped sea: rate energy input = rate energy dissipation »no change in waves characteristics developped seaconsost of several wave fileds (due to wind variations =change in wave types)
• wave fields storm and swell storm wave fileds has many different wave fields (wide distribution) swell is very stable and has only narrow variance of wave fields. Can have eg 2 swells meeting each other, coming from different direcitons
• definition waves classification significant height mean direction H max Mean T T max Hs:Average of the highest 1/3 of wave height during observation period Tp(s): representative of period of most energetic wave (frequency with mx. Value of spectral density) Mean direction Dir°: direction of most energetic waves (measured clockwise from north) Hmax: maximum height recorded during observation Mean period Tz : average period Tmax:maximum period measured during observation

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